Tuesday, October 2, 2007

8a.nu

8a.nu

One of my favourite websites is www.8a.nu. I know that for many people this is website holds no appeal because they feel it’s a type of bragging, or that they feel they don’t send hard enough to merit a scorecard. And for a long time I would have agreed. In fact, I only have a scorecard, because my boyfriend opened one for me and diligently put my climbs up. Recently though, I’ve come to see the merit in it myself.

Firstly, it is personal. Odds are no one will be looking at your scorecard except yourself. So I’ve stopped feeling so self conscious about it. It’s a bit like being a teenager, you think everyone is looking at you, and then one day you realise they aren’t. Same thing I think.

For me recently, its been a real asset to my climbing. I’ve been doing slightly harder climbs than I’ve done before. But in my head, I am still climbing the same grades I was 2 years ago. Its only when looking at the scorecard, that I’ve come to realise I am sending harder and I need my head to catch up with my body. Its been a tool breaking through the glass ceiling we place on ourselves.

Its also great to have an easy to use tool to track your climbing. You can see your climbing pyramid. Where you have gaps in grades and where you need to put in a bit more effort to build a bigger base. I believe the bigger your climbing base, the better the climber.

I also, like to look at top climbers scorecards. Its really inspiring for me to see the volume they climb. And I believe the results are the product of the volume.

And lastly, and this is just for me personally, it’s a little ego boost. When I’m feeling a little climbing incompetent, I’ll look at my all time sends. I find it sorts out my head. I’m not useless – look at all these climbs! Can’t be that useless if I could drag myself up all of those.

Anyways, those are my few cents worth!

Cheers,

D

Favourite Links

www.climb.co.za

www.samountainmag.com

www.8a.nu

www.lisarands.com

www.martinacufar.com

www.davemacloed.com

www.climbing.com

www.findyourdetour.com (Lynn Hill’s Blog)

www.highinfatuation.com (Steph Daivs Potter’s site)

www.planetfear.com

www.freakclimbing.com


Enjoy!

D

The Roc and Road Trip

This weekend at the Roc Rally saw the culmination of the Roc Trip with the super finals. This is the first time an event of this scale has ever occurred. Due to a trip to Goldrush on Sat and Sun, I sadly didn’t get to see the finals. However, from discussions with organisers, competitors and spectators alike, it seems that the event was amazing. The organisers had a tent rigged on the edge of the Tranquilitas crag which overlooks the God No wall where the super final was held.
There were camera’s capturing the climbing action and a big screen tv set up in the tent for spectators to view the climbing close up. Eric Rieman provided very psyched commentary and kept everyone hooked and on the edge of their seats. The sheer scale of the event and the organisation is amazing! A big screen TV! Its like a rugby match!

For the actual results, and a longer commentary,
www.climb.co.za has it all but I just wanted to say to everyone who took part and helped make it happen, ‘Congrats! You did an amazing job and have set the benchmark for future events.’

D

Why blog


After hours and hours on the internet I have concluded that I want to add to the mass out there. I want to set up a blog in a similar format to the trail running blog, http://runtrails.blogspot.com/. Its an awesome format because it operates like a website. The benefit of a blog is that it can be constantly updated for sends and doesn’t cost anything. Also, it would make it easier to submit news to SA Mountain Magazine (www.samountainmag.com) because there’s a constant stream of information. So this blog is dedicated to all things climbing and more specifically, South African Climbing!
I don’t want it to be a whiny diary (although I make no promises), but rather a collection of all things climbing related. So I would like if you are keen if you could send me news as something is sent and photo’s if you have. Maybe a dumb idea, but let me know!

Cheers,

D

Why climb


There has been so much thought and effort that has gone into this question. It seems to me that several climbers have wondered the same thing. And although there are a range of answers, the answers seem to overlap. I know that personally, I have been able to identify with the reasons stated by professional and recreational climbers alike. Perhaps that is one of the reasons I climb, because you meet and relate to people from every walk of life.

Through this sport I have found so much I never even knew I lacked. I even struggle to use the word sport, because to me, it is so much more. Steph Davis once described climbing as the ‘pure path of spiritual joy’. And whilst I am far more conservative and reserved than that, I relate to the sentiment.

Through my climbing I learnt about myself. I have learnt that the mind is stronger than the body and in me it needs to be trained just as hard. I’ve learnt that I expect a lot from myself, but that without the necessary work, these expectations can be negative. I’ve learnt not to give up at the first sign of difficulty, that if you keep a positive outlook and keep trying, you may surprise yourself. But most importantly, I’ve learnt that this is and should be fun. And if its not, its time to rest.

I’ve discovered places I would never have been to otherwise. I been to arbitrary locations all over South Africa and parts of the world, simply because the climbing was good. I’ve suffered in 40 degree temperature in Oudshoorne, sweated in Thailand and slogged up hills I would never have climbed but for the climbing waiting at the top.

Before climbing, my life BC, I would have spent my weekends in shopping centres, worrying about clothes and boys. I started climbing as an 18 year old. And instantly those worries faded. I wanted to be strong and competent. I wanted to climb constantly. The way I viewed my body changed. Instead of not being thin enough, or taller enough, or whatever silly issue we subject ourselves to, my body become this strong and powerful machine that got me up climbs. Sure, I still had those issues and I still do. I’m not light enough, I’m not strong enough, etc. But these thoughts are tempered by the euphoria of getting up a climb I’ve never done before. I believe in the usefulness and power of my body.

Through climbing, I’ve met the most interesting and colourful characters I’ve ever known. I’ve made friends that will last a lifetime. Sure we’ve fought, gotten annoyed with each other, complained. But I’ve become a better friend for it.

But for me, the most important reason is the world I’ve discovered through climbing. The rugged, complicated and beautiful natural world.

Monday, June 4, 2007

Bronkies Sending

This weekends climbing news

This weekend at the Gauteng crag of Bronkies, several climbers braved the chilly winter temps. Mark Millar flashed the new 25, The Shining, quite comfortably and Dom Dix Peek flashed the crimpy 22, Naked Orange. This 22 was then sent by myself (Desiree) and Marion Penso. On the same day, Steve Bretherik sent the 26, Rat Kid and the 25, The Shining.